Distant
gleams turn brown and blacken before certain columns. They clarify others
obliquely, feebly yet regularly.
But
the depth of the chancel and the whole left part of the nave are plunged into a
thick gloom. The effect is horrible because of the indecision of things in the
lighted distance. A whole square space is struck by stark illumination; lights
flame between columns that take on colossal proportions. And I am made to doubt
this epoch and this country by the interruptions, these conflicts of light and
shadow, these four opaque columns before me and these six others lighted
further off in the same oblique line, and then by the night in which I am
bathed and which submerges everything. There is no softness. I have the impression
of being in an immense cavern from which Apollo will arise.
For a
very long while I cannot define the horrible vision. I no longer recognise my
religion, my Cathedral. This is the horror of the ancient mysteries. At least
so I should suppose if I no longer felt the architectural symmetry. The vaulted
ceilings are barely perceptible, braced by shadows, the ribs of the arches.
I must
escape the oppression of this effect of
closing in. A guide takes me by the hand, and I move through darkness that
soars as far as the vault.
From
the light beyond them, these five columns have their oblique illumination. The
ribs, the arched ceiling beams, the ogives resemble crossed flags like those at
the Invalides.
I
advance. It is an enchanted forest. The tops of the five columns are no longer
visible. The pale lights that cross the balustrades horizontally create
infernal roundelays.1 Here one is in heaven by day and in hell by
night. Like Dante we have descended into hell.
Violent
contrasts are like those from torchlight. Ardent fire at the mouth of a tunnel
spreads out in layers. Only the columns against this flaming background are
indistinctly black. At moments a drapery appears with a red cross; the light
seems to be extinguished, but no, it persists in a mortal immobility.
The
chancel is laid bare to horror. But the horror controls itself, imposes order,
and this order reassures us. And then, our memory of day, our connections with
the day come at this moment to our rescue, giving us the necessary confidence.
There
is a reflection on one ogive; the perspective is masked and the clarity,
imperfectly developed on the edge, shows only the stationary construction in
the dim gleam. But this gleam, although terrible, nevertheless reveals the
masterpiece.
The
Cathedral assumes an Assyrian character. Egypt is vanquished, for this
Cathedral is more poignant than a Pyramid, father from us than the grottos
where the great creation of rules appeared. The unknown is the mystery of this
spectacle. One thinks of a forest, of a grotto, but this is nothing of that
sort: this is something absolutely new, which it is impossible to define at
once.
The
frightful bulk of night, feebly pushed aside for a moment, as quickly, and with
an irresistible violence, regains empire.
This is
like Rembrandt, but as a spectre of taste
and order. Rembrandt himself brings us not more than an echo of this
prodigious world.
I am
in terror and in rapture.
Dante,
did you enter this circle of horror?
The
chapels are transformed by the struggle between darkness and light.
This
one is a sombre grotto where there seem to be only shells set out along the
ribs of the arches. And yet, the terrible shadow allows itself to be seen,
appreciated, and modelled.
Another
chapel is divided in two by a cast shadow. One whole side is abolished. The
columns seen from three-quarters, black and formidable, disturb the whole
architectural arrangement. My dissipated mind apprehends only frightful things;
it sees horrible supporting legs repeated in this forest that man has created
for his God. Is this forest less beautiful than the real one? Is it animated by fewer thoughts, less
populated by atrocious larvi and by fewer spirits?
And
you, gargoyles, did you not issue from the brain of sculptors who returned to
the Cathedral after sunset to take counsel there from the night and to seek
there the memory of some horrible dream?
I
aspire to a new confirmation of the grandeurs of the Gothic soul.
One
would have an impression of a Tower of Babel if, in this apparent confusion,
all at once architectures did not surge out of the night, if the shadow itself
were not organised. The moment is present without words and without voice.
Completely
black columns are around the chancel; this is stone in prayer, a waterspout
that rises to God.
Oh
Night, you are greater here than anywhere else. It is because of the half
illumination that terror comes over me. Incomplete illuminations cut the
monument into trunks, and these gleams tell me the thrilling pride of the
Titans who built this Cathedral. Did they pray? Or did they create?
Oh
genius of man, I implore you, remain with us, god of all reflections!
We
have seen what the human eye had not seen, what is perhaps forbidden it to see.
Orpheus and Eurydice feared being unable to escape, since the boatmen did not
come to fetch them in the terrible gloom. We walked alone amid the Night. We
were in the straits of Tarn. We went alone into a great forest. A whole world
was in this Night that the Titans had prepared for us.
A
candle buns: a tiny point of light. To reach it I must stride over heavy masses
of shadow where I rub against dead gleams, unicorns, monsters, visions.
The Thinker2 would have been well
adapted to this crypt; this immense shadow would have fortified that work.
By lighting
a candle, the sacristan has displaced the shadows. There is a treasure here,
the treasure of shadow accumulated by the night. It hides the treasure of the
Cathedral.3
As we
reached the door, this gigantic scene advanced toward us: the immense room
seemed prepared for a banquet to the infernal gods.
Then
the small door of the Cathedral was closed. The vision disappeared. All is
entrusted now to our memory
1. Translators note: dances in the round.
See Albert E. Elsen, Rodin, Museum of
Modern Art, New York, 1963, pp 155-156.
2. Translator’s note: This refers to
Rodin’s enlarged figure of the Thinker.
3. Translator’s note: The French word here
is église (Church), but obviously it
refers to the Cathedral of Reims.
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